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By Graham K. Rogers
I am looking at some of the countless hidden back streets on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River where there are older buildings, some old market garden areas and people who are interesting and friendly. This is not the Bangkok of the tourist, but its unusual attractiveness appeals to me.
I have lived on the Thonburi side of the river for over 20 years. I have been planning this extended look at the other Bangkok for over a year: a short-cut by a taxi driver brought me out close to a friend's apartment on Petchakasem Road and I had a mystery tour of the back streets.
In April I took some pictures of the early morning atmosphere. In the second part, a Mid-morning Stroll I ventured further, a little later in the day when people had started moving. In the third section, in May, I walked as far as the canal that splits the area. At the end of last week I walked From the Canal to a Split in the Road. Over the weekend I went up to the roof of the apartment block which afforded me a Loftier View of the whole area and beyond, followed by A Detour to the Main Road 7 days ago.
In the interim I had a couple of days riding on the railway that starts from this area: one part going to Mahachai, with the second section (over the river) as far as Mae Klong: a very different pace.
On the section I cover in this page, I had hoped to be going into greener areas, but the streets were still decidedly urban. I cheated again and took the bus part of the way, then a motorcycle taxi -- these guys are beginning to recognise me. As before I walked all the way back, stopping for lunch part of the way along. I also decided to shorten the walk as this was one of the hottest days I have known this year.
I started walking where the road turned off near the canal bridge I had photographed the last time I came. At times there was a fair amount of traffic, suggesting that this section is used as a link road. While there were a few people about, most were hiding in the shade.
After a few hundred metres, the road is cut by the main Rajapreuk Road, a highway that goes directly from Sathorn right out to Nonthaburi. This was quiet when it was first opened, but development now means there is congestion morning and evening.
Like other roads that have been cut by bridges that carry Rajapreuk, the road here loops round under the columns and then continues. I stopped at the bridge, saving the road after the loop for another day, but went back using a path alongside the canal. I could see the bridge I had walked under the last time so was able to join a few dots.
The canal area has been cleaned up considerably and both sides have a concrete path and a painted metal fence. The canal is used for transportation of goods and people, though I saw none travelling along the canal. There are also linking canals to the sides: essential for drainage.
Under the canal bridge a scrap metal collector was tidying up: sorting out what he had collected. He had some badges which he had found and offered me one for 10 baht: a small price to pay for the pleasure of communication.
Walking back, I passed a shop where last week I had the owner and a worker. They recognised me and were pleased to see me again. I walked over and was introduced to the wife and number one son too. They were delighted when I showed them their photographs on the webpage using my iPhone. I had made some more friends: much easier in this part of Bangkok.
I passed the motorcycle taxis on the way back and they all acknowledged me. It will be even easier the next time I take a ride. A little further on, I stopped for a bowl of barmee noodles with duck and a rich, dark gravy.
After lunch I headed back to my apartment, keeping in the shadows as much as I could. The heat was pretty fierce today and I have picked up the sun a lot in the last couple of weeks: despite having been here for so long, I tend to keep fairly pale. Not this month.
While the watermarking reduces the overall quality of the photographs, I am aware that my pictures sometimes end up on sites without no acknowledgement. I have the originals of course. These are available if wanted. I have selected 36 images from more than 120 taken. For those with a Mac and a trackpad, use Safari in Full Screen View and use two fingers to tap on the trackpad for a better display of the pictures. Please share the links.
Graham K. Rogers
Thonburi
15 May 2012
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Graham K. Rogers teaches at the Faculty of Engineering, Mahidol University in Thailand. He wrote in the Bangkok Post, Database supplement on IT subjects. For the last seven years of Database he wrote a column on Apple and Macs.
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